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Messages - Hutchy

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The guy didn't make  "A" mistake. He made a list of mistakes. Trappers that know the area are writing that he was about a mile from several cabins.

A master carpenter should have been able to jury rig some type of snowshoe.

Funny the power of the internet eh. The guys on trapperman tell it like it is.

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: CO poisoning
« on: December 19, 2019, 04:33:58 pm »
I often hear this, and it is certainly true when using an un-chimneyed combustion heat source like a propane heater or a camp stove or similar. But it is just not much of a risk when using a stove with a chimney. A stove sucks air out of the tent and drives the resulting combustion products up the chimney. This lowers the air pressure in the tent meaning that air is sucked in from outside. Since very few tents are anywhere close to airtight, there is a constant stream of fresh air coming into the tent to replace that which is lost up the chimney.

By all means use a CO detector if you are worried about this. But I think it is important to make clear that a woodstove with a chimney is not really a risk for CO accumulation. Of course the chimney could separate, but in that case a smoke alarm might be a better option?


this x2

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: Your favorite wood processing and fire tips?
« on: December 12, 2019, 08:48:45 am »
I find bringing a friend who likes to cut wood is always the best bet.

Finding that person in a society where most have never even held a saw is the tough part.

Because the snow is so deep I never use any kind of "setup" to cut wood. Log hits the ground, I kick a space for the saw underneath it and start cutting. Having the log at about knee level (no snowshoes on), means I can push almost straight down with each cut stroke. Pushing a saw horizontally always seemed to be much harder. When a piece is cut, pull the log 16" closer and cut another piece. The log generally has enough surface area to float it on top of the snow, and it is always solid and un-moving because the whole length is contacting the snow. Works best when the snow is over two feet deep and you tramp down an area on snowshoe first and then cut with no snowshoes on.  Works great even when the log gets small. Just give it a push into the snow first to set it.

Splitting is done kneeling, and a I just set the log again on the snow. A good fast strike with a lighter axe will avoid driving the piece into the snow, as the firewood is heavy and resists gaining momentum. Lighter pieces get driven into the snow if it doesn't split, but smaller wood just gets burned whole anyway. I don't kneel to avoid hurting myself, just to keep a straighter back. Avoiding a possible major injury is an added benefit however.

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: Titanium vs Steel Stoves
« on: December 05, 2019, 04:08:41 pm »
Hutchy, is your stove 10x10x18 inches?

If so, can you let me know the precise position of the baffle, and did you install the baffle yourself, or did it come with the stove?

Thank you!

Pretty sure mine is the UL2, which if I recall is 12x12x22

So not sure the location of my baffle will help too much in terms of specific measurements as the smaller one is likely different.

Other Winter Camping Gear / Re: Do you carry a MULTI-TOOL?
« on: November 26, 2019, 08:48:41 pm »
Leatherman super tool 300. I always carry a pair of linemans pliers when trapping as nothing compares to them when it comes to trapline tasks such as twisting wire.

The super tool is better for all around winter stuff when a needle nosed design is preferred over the linemans pliers.

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: Titanium vs Steel Stoves
« on: November 26, 2019, 08:45:15 pm »
I find mine a good size for my tent.

I like my baffle and false floor. Never really had any issues with the door leaking, but I could add a gasket if need be if it ever became an issue. The vent on mine never closes all the way, but I find unless the wood is perfectly dry it needs just a hint more air than fully closed to keep a good slow burn.

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: Titanium vs Steel Stoves
« on: November 24, 2019, 07:37:49 am »
Tis the weight that's the thing for me.

I have a Fourdog ul2, and that means that I can go with a very large stove, carry very little weight, fill the stove full, and.cut it back to give a very low heat output. This allows me to burn all night, keep the tent hovering around or just above freezing and only fill it two or three times a night.

Best purchase I ever made.


They caught one and skinning it ended any enthusiasm they had for trapping!

Ya, I hit 93 beaver this year, most through the ice. You need a sick sense of pleasure, bbut you can learn to look forward to and enjoy the skinning process.

Don't get me wrong! I am all for getting people interested in trapping. I would just hate to have things go awry. If there is a way to prevent that I am all for it. I just don't know if a blanket disclaimer to follow all your state or provinces rules and regulations is enough in this case

Sounds interesting, however, it might not be the best of ideas. In my part of the world, trappers must have an obligatory course similar to courses taken for hunting. The purpose of the course is safety, ethics, avoidance of catching non-targets, harvesting methods, fur handlingand fur bearer management.

There is also the reality of registered traplines where exclusivity of trapping rights is already granted.

This is all complicated stuff difficult to learn in a short period of time.

Snaring hares is easily learned and not subject to the same reality. Setting a 330 mag for beaver or a foothold that might pinch a dog is a whole different thing.

I was a provincial trap line instructor and I would be very nervous encouraging someone, who just wants to dabble a little, to use any of the mandatory body grip traps legally required to harvest most of the species you mentioned.

But reading sign, recognizing some sets made by a trapper and snaring hares would be easily done and worthwhile for the winter trekker.

Sorry if this appears negative. But it would be a shame if someone got injured or if trapping got a another black eye.
As someone who has one registered line, and who traps on two others I cant agree more. Rabbit snaring is much different than 330s, 220s in boxes...etc. While I know lure of the north does a trapping trip that was quite successful, they are licensed trappers and were doing their trips on a a registered line that they were helper trappers on. While I know the US is so much different (you can buy a license and trap the same day), we have fought too hard here to have our ways threatened by people who simply dont know how to avoid non target animals. We can still set free hanging snares here for canines, we can set 330s above water and fisher and coon boxes on the ground. It only takes rover dead once in a trap on the 6:00 news because of someones carelessness to tarnish public opinion enough to further limit us.

Our mandatory courses take two weekends full time to complete, and the graduate is still a complete newbie who generally cannot get a trapline right away. Takes more learning than that, hence our system of getting on a line as a helper trapper. While trapping is not overly complex, its trapping in today's society that is the issue with everyone looking to sue everyone and put regulations on anything they don't personally agree with. 

Food and Cooking / Re: My New Superfood!
« on: March 08, 2019, 03:45:40 pm »
So you knocked off all the sugar only to fry it in butter?

 :o :D

Nice. I cant say enough about the on and off trail ability of the voyageur. Dont expect great fuel mileage out of the 550 though. About the only thing i dont love about it

I dont do the photobucket thing...

any chance you would put a few on here for me if you pmed me a cell number or an email address?

Stonehouse, As with most things,  I would love to decrease some weight and bulk. The snowmobile was a polaris voyageur 155 with the extreme rack and custom dry bag, so space wasnt a huge issue. I would consider going to a synthetic shelter such as a kifaru sawtooth to save some weight and bulk, namely in the pole system for my 8x10 snowtrekker. However, I might miss the bombproof reliability of the snowtrekker and the ease of setup.

As to the trailer, nope. No way for how I ride would I want to be towing. I for this trip I didnt even use my spare 2.5 gallons of gas. One change I might make woul dbe to find a different spot for the gas can. It went inside my rack, but was really awkward to move my drybag around it and was very int he way. AN external mount might be something I will look into. there is a company that makes them, just need to find a place. Which is tough since my sled has a chainsaw mount, chisel mount, and saddlebags.

Sleds and Toboggans / Re: 1/8" HDPE for $19.99
« on: March 04, 2019, 09:46:50 am »
UHMW and HDPE both roll up and can fit in a smart car. You can also throw a plastic one off a cliff without issue. They slide incredibly well, laugh at rocks in the trail and require no wax.

I like wood, but I am not giving up those benefits for nostalgia.

Sleds and Toboggans / Re: 1/8" HDPE for $19.99
« on: March 02, 2019, 08:43:26 am »
Countersinking works, you just need more, smaller screws and be extremely careful with the countersink.  You need to ensure that you don't go even a bit too deep, as in, keep the head perfectly flush with the surface. That said, my 1/8 toboggans have issue with being lashed tight. They end up getting "wavy" or bumpy when you tightly lash the gear down. For towing I still prefer my 1/4" ones.

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