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Messages - Pyreneo

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1
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: Ventile anorak from Wintergreen
« on: October 26, 2017, 04:19:04 pm »
The same here : I have machine washed my ventile, my mackinaw filson, even old swedish army woollen pants and jacket...

2
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: Wind Pants
« on: October 03, 2017, 06:17:14 am »
The expense has been modified in the past by using the lightest Ventile as an inner layer and something cheaper on the outside to take the wear and tear. Just look at a genuine US army M-65 field-coat, they use the lightest weight Ventile or an equivalent on the inside

I have only a M-65 from Alpha industries. I don't think that inside liner is "Ventile" or something like this. But in USA during WWII they have run some experience in the jungle with "Byrd Cloth" (Similar to Grenfell cloth).

source : https://books.google.fr/books?id=Lita2OQpHDsC&pg=PA88&lpg=PA88&dq=BYRD+CLOTH&source=web&ots=VhupXbLa1t&sig=2G8oVeMboJ3KdYrIZ5zQAXZ7pCA&hl=fr&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result#v=onepage&q=BYRD%20CLOTH&f=false


Also I have an english SAS smock from a small cottage (SASS, Lancashire). When I bought it (some years ago), the owner (Paul R Lewis) have said that it was an american fabric "Ventile like".

Dicusssion here : http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=432538

And, Is is quite true : the fabric is "ventile like"....perharps not totally "as good" but very close. So, I could understand than some "real M-65" had a liner in "Ventile Like cotton" made in USA.

For ventile you need two things : High Quality cotton (long fiber egyptian cotton, england was in Egypt until WWII/1950) and good factory (English mills for cotton are very old and have a very high know how since centuries).

American "island cotton" is as good than Egyptian cotton. And, nowadays, you could probably find a modern factory with the same quality than English Factory. Or an old factory in the deep south who made "Byrd Cloth".  ;)

3
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: Wind Pants
« on: October 02, 2017, 10:24:38 am »
That "etaproof" looks like really interesting fabric. I would like to know what the water-resistant coating/impregnation is. I wonder whether is is flame retardant? How well does it wear? But all of those thoughts leave my mind when I look at the price of (+/-) $55.00cdn per meter plus shipping. Ugh!

-Only DWR. You doesn't need it to be water resistant.
- No flame retardant. but it is 100% cotton : resist very well to cinder/spark from fire.
- It is wear resistant like 150/250g/m² cotton. Quite good but less than synthetic.

That is quite totally windproof and water resistant (HH 750mm). Nice feel against skin and no problem with hydolysis like PU coating. work very well when deep cold.

Ventile and Etaproof (Swiss!) have always been expensive...so the move to 60/40 and 70/30.

4
Hilleberg is very good....but don't miss Helsport. It is also a very good (and old) brand :



Their "extrem" offer have storm flaps and is very well made (price like hilleberg  :-X )

ex : http://www.helsport.no/reinsfjell-x-trem



You could compare their offer : http://www.helsport.no/catalog/product_compare/index/

5
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: Wind Pants
« on: September 15, 2017, 03:01:40 am »
You could find etaproof (ventile) fabric here : https://www.extremtextil.de/en/etaproof-waterproof-cotton-170g/sqm.html

6
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: You don't need heavy weight woollen pants
« on: September 15, 2017, 02:58:36 am »
I have tested both solution in Lapland :

Woolpower 200 + woolpower 400 + german BW wind pant (Leo Köhler GMBH). VS Old VeryHeavy wool pant (woolrich 70's) + german BW wind pant (Leo Köhler GMBH)

It's true that combi with woolpower is warmer, versatile and lighter....but, you need to wear always the wind pant since woolpower bottom doesn't cut the wind and are not at all "heavy duty". Instead, very often, you could walk and work with only VH wool pant and they breath very well, rugged and cut little wind.

Also Woolrich pant cut more wind (so it is better under wind pant* in strong wind) and they are more water resistant.

So, when you have to walk a lot, layering woolpower is probably better. If you have to spend a lot of time in wilderness and have to work (forest), Heavy pant are better IMHO.


*I think that a wind pant doesn't have to be 100% wind proof. Technically something like 10_35 CFM is better (your perspiration could escape)**. But "all your gear put together" must be quite totally windproof. Nowadays you could have a thin synthetic rainproof, since weight could be something 5oz.

About wind shirt and CFM, technical discussion on BPL :
https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/review-zpacks-ventum-wind-shell-jacket/
and https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/86001/

8
I wish I could find gloves big enough to be able to wear liner gloves or wool gloves inside... But that doesn't exist unfortunately...

You could bring a leather working glove with liner of synthetic fur....and you cut the synthetic liner (it is easy). So you will have enough space (volume) for a wool glove (boiled wool glove for me).

After you will have really big hands!

9
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: Wind Pants
« on: January 20, 2017, 01:48:11 pm »
Normally : army surplus.

10
I have clean all my wool gears in washing machine without problem (filson, codet, swedisharmy jacket, army wool....) since years.


BUT :
- I always used an european washing machine (open front).
- Wool program (certified by woolmark).
- Wool soap (woolite, I don't know if you have it in america)
- Wash cold (30°C max!)
- Little spin (400 t/min)
- Never, never dry it in a machine : flat drying only.

Sometimes I could have a little shrink with this method...but no more than wearing wool under rain or during hard exercise.

11
Hello,

From my winter travels in lappland and also advices from friends in Sptizberg and other cold places :

Thermos "light & compact" are the best we could find in Europe (no Nissan here so no advice). Be careful : Light and compact are the most expensive one (normal thermos brand bottle, are less expensive but are not so good). My experience is for "light inox bootle", not the heavy one like stanley.

link here (in french) : http://www.maxicoffee.com/bouteille-thermos-light-compact-thermax-isotherme-inox-100cl-p-2795.html?osCsid=dbenfi75peekam1ftrla1mo915

A very good improvement is when you could open the insulated bottle easily, with only a small part of the plug to drink (not unscrew it). With the thermos "light and compact" it is easy and relatively sturdy. You coul also clean the pouring mechanism quite easily (important if you use soup or sugar liquid). And of course you could also open wide the plug (normal way).

With other brands the advanced one hand pourring mechanism is often. But keep in mind that even with thermos "light and compact" the advanced  plug is not as sturdy as a simple screw one!





The bigger volume the better (it's a matter of surface vs. volume of internal heat). And it is always a good idea to put your bottle in your rucksak with insulated cloth around (but not directly close to down : too dangerous in winter if you have some leak. And one day you will have some leak).


12
Hello

(I will try with my basic english).

First you could consider that you could sleep with underwear and nothing more at aproximatly 20 or 25°C (68/77°F).
Second you must have good information about your sleeping bag.

In Europe you have  norm EN 13537 for information about sleeping bag insulation. You could read more here :

https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=0ahUKEwiOypjur5vPAhVBfxoKHbKOAs0QFgg_MAY&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mammut.ch%2Fdocuments%2FSchlafsaecke%2FDownloads%2FSleep%2520Well%2FMammut_Sleep_well_pt1_E.pdf&usg=AFQjCNH-xR50LR_mwpDVh3TiOdtCFusvqQ&cad=rja

Some maths : (rule of thumbs)  :)

1. Nothing : you could sleep at 20/25°C (68/77°f)
2. First bag : +10°C 50°F (summer sleeping bag (confort EN13537) 25-10= 10/15°C (50/59°F) real insulation of your sleeping bag
3. Second bag : 0°C  (32°F) 3 seasons sleeping bag (confort EN13537)
4. All System  : summer bag upper+3 seasons inside,  is good for something like -10°/-15°C (14/5°F)

It is not very accurate for several reasons :
* The upper bag must be roomy enough.
* Its weight must not compress the first bag (and you)
* The norm is only accurate around 32°F (it is a mass market norm).
* Colder temp : you need very good mats. Especially if you sleep on ice or concrete.
* And of course : no wind, well feed, young man, not sick...etc.

Also : first day your sleeping bag is nice, second day you have some water in it and it gets worse (except for hot camper).

Nota bene : You have several advantages with two sleeping bags. They are more versatile, easier to laundry and much easier to dry. But they are bulkier, heavier  than a big single one and not so easy to use.

13
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: Cloaks/ponchos as winter clothing
« on: September 13, 2016, 09:19:41 am »
Hello,

In deep snow I think a long coat is a problem, for this reason lappish/fjallraven cape is short. If you are in alpin moutain, a cape is not very good (wind and it is cumbersone). In a flat and cold country (lappland) : why not.

The advantage of poncho liner with hole is that you could use it as a part of your sleeping equipement and you could use it during day. If it is not too heavy you could use it like a blancket upon you down sleeping bag.

14
Winter Camping Clothing / Re: MEC Down Parka on sale for $250
« on: January 13, 2016, 11:33:30 am »
Yes seems to be a good deal for ultralight winter backpacking : half weight of the parka is for down, and this down is very good quality and water resistant!


15
Odlo make very good one (quite expensive). My personal choice for serious trip. You could find Light or Warm. I dont know if you could find this in new world.

here : http://www.odlo-store.eu/search/gloves

light : http://www.odlo-store.eu/Gloves/100/Odlo--Gloves-LIGHT/7583/1/5/2/93
thicker : http://www.odlo-store.eu/Gloves/61/Odlo--Gloves-WARM/7421/1/5/2/149


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