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Messages - Dave Hadfield

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Classifieds / Re: light hot tent set up wanted
« on: November 14, 2018, 02:01:29 pm »
My stove is sized so that the stovepipe fits inside for travel.

Works perfectly. All the dirty stuff in one bundle.

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: How To Build A Portable Wood Stove
« on: May 05, 2018, 09:02:00 pm »

Think of the personal growth!

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: How To Build A Portable Wood Stove
« on: May 05, 2018, 09:41:23 am »
The sheet metal I bought from a local ducting shop -- $20 for a 4 ft x 4 ft square.

Everything else I pretty much had around the shop.

I bought rivets from RONA, but didn't like them. They just seemed light -- squeezed too easy. They were from China. I put them aside and dug out some older ones sold by Stanley. (On a stove, rivets are not the place to economize.)

So, maybe $30 (CAD) ?.

Fire and Woodstoves / How To Build A Portable Wood Stove
« on: May 04, 2018, 03:43:44 pm »
Hi All,

I upgraded my website, using a wordpress template and bringing it up to date. Bigger job than I thought!

Anyway, I decided to build a new wood stove to document the process and write a better article. Would you mind having a look and telling me what pictures don't load, or what you find confusing?



Fire and Woodstoves / Re: The Need for Stove Baffles
« on: April 09, 2018, 12:20:09 pm »
I've been working steadily on my new website.

Just call me the WordPress guy who seems to swear a lot.

Anyway, I built a woodstove recently so I could document it properly. I'll have the How-To article up within a week or two.


Fire and Woodstoves / Re: The Need for Stove Baffles
« on: April 08, 2018, 08:43:34 am »
It's just a box. And it has fire in it.

That's it. And that's all that's necessary.

This is not an airtight at home where you need to suck out every erg of energy in order to heat a house at minimum cost. It's for a tent, where the tiny enclosed space means that any kind of a stove at all will practically cook you out.

The difference between a simple tin box stove and an airtight, over the course of an evening, is one armful of firewood. This takes a man with a saw about 2 minutes to cut, and there are billions of cords of wood in the Boreal Forest.

If your stove has a large stovepipe, and everything is whooshing up the pipe, just cut a slice in the first section about 1/3 through, and slide in a disc of metal. I've done this. For a 3" stovepipe on a 9 x 9 x 22 stove, it doesn't help at all. But it would if the pipe was 4".

If you have 2 latches on the door, top and bottom, and an efficient draft control that will close-off when you want it to, then the flame does not go whooshing up the pipe.

OK, now I'll stand back and get flamed. ;)


Sleds and Toboggans / Re: Pulk Design
« on: April 04, 2018, 06:57:37 pm »
Thanks, but when I look at the photos, I still don't see it.

Sleds and Toboggans / Re: Pulk Design
« on: April 04, 2018, 02:35:56 pm »
I'm sorry, but I don't understand your bending set-up.

The final result looks good though!

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: The Need for Stove Baffles
« on: April 04, 2018, 02:31:27 pm »
I thought this too once, and experimented. Verdict -- nope.

It's a different picture when the door is closed and the draft is nearly shut.

A 9 x 9 x 22 stove using 3" pipe doesn't need a baffle. There is enough back-resistance. Different matter if it was 4" pipe, possibly.

But heck, don't take my word for it. Cut about 1/3 across the stovepipe nearest the stove with a hacksaw, and slide in a soup-can lid. Play with different amounts. It's a cheap and simple experiment.

The way I rig my wall-tent, sparks are not an issue -- the smoke is projected away from the tent. And to be honest, sparks are rarely seen because we use the draft control a lot and reduce the flow through the stove.


Fire and Woodstoves / Re: My first stove build
« on: April 03, 2018, 11:37:24 am »

Yes, that is a reinforcing piece. I put it on my last stove to stop the top from warping, and it really worked. But it is not just another layer. It' a "V" piece, sticking down 5/8" or so.

In the photo, you're seeing the underside of the stove. I'm pre-drilling the holes so that later, after I've bent up the sides of the stove, it'll be easy to rivet the V-piece into place because the holes are pre-drilled and all line up. And, to line it up, I'm using temporary small screws right into my workbench to make sure the piece doesn't move around as I drill the 14 holes.

If you don't add this piece, the stove-top warps and buckles in use. It's not a show-stopper, but the flatter the top, the more it's in contact with your frying pan.


Fire and Woodstoves / Re: My first stove build
« on: April 01, 2018, 12:05:16 pm »
Here we are baking my daughter's 21st-birthday cake.

Fire and Woodstoves / Re: My first stove build
« on: April 01, 2018, 11:25:37 am »
Nice job!

I recently made another one too, for new photos of the construction process.

You often end up adding wood via the pot-hole. You lift out the pot, insert a stick, and set the pot back in. Not a problem. And it doesn't spill.

Also, a great way to get the stove going again when it's burned low is to leave the door closed, close the draft, remove the lid, and rake the coals up against the door (using a piece of split wood) from above. Then put back the lid and open the draft. The coals will come back to life in a few seconds and roar like a blacksmith's forge. Add more wood from above, and you're away.

So, for the stovepipe, you aren't going to install a "nipple" on the stove top? Are you going to insert the crimped end of the stovepipe in the hole?

What size pipe? That stove may be a bit large for 3". Particularly if pipe protrudes into the stove. It may not draw that way -- it may smoke. But using 4" pipe would solve it, and you can always make a bigger hole.

This is how I made the nipple:

Just cut tabs, bend them up, insert from the inside, and rivet. Mind you, it's a lot easier to do the drilling before you river the back onto the stove.

Anyway -- enjoy the hot tent!


Sleds and Toboggans / Re: Pulk Design
« on: March 30, 2018, 08:31:29 pm »
I thought my HDPE toboggan, an idea I stole, was the finest modification in the history of the universe, until I invented the ski-sled. (It was the '80s. This kind of plastic was new.) Then, I found that the new design, based on old downhill skis, pulled easier.

And was a lot cheaper and easier to source. (I "borrowed" an old set from a friend's parent's garage.)

Most people build ski-sleds too heavy. You have to build them like a canoe, or an airplane -- always fighting weight gain.

If it never breaks, you screwed up -- you made it too heavy.

Sleds and Toboggans / Re: Pulk Design
« on: March 29, 2018, 02:55:14 pm »
Recently I bought two $20 Pelican sleds from the local hardware store (Canadian Tire), reinforced them a bit, and hitched them together.

They work great.

I don't like a pure toboggan, and have used a few. They slide sideways, accumulate snow which you have to pull all day, and there is always the full surface in contact with the snow.

I found that a ski-sled is better, if you pay attention to weight. This unit pulls easier than a HDPE toboggan, tested by me on level ground in 16" of soft unbroken snow, pulled by one person on snowshoes (no packed trail).

I would build this unit to weigh less these days, using lighter plywood, and cedar, and a plastic containment.


Tents and Shelters / Re: Atuk Cree Hot Tent
« on: March 25, 2018, 11:04:12 pm »
There are tent manufacturers in Canada that will make you a wall tent as a custom sewing project. That's how I had mine made.

You have to think it through carefully, draw up a detailed sketch and Plan, and insist they follow it. You may also have to find the lightweight material and get it to them.

The downside is that they are used to making them to be transported by machine, so their own designs are very heavy. So, you have to insist. But they are used to the concept and it may not be too expensive.

What city are you near?


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