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21
You maybe have heard me before on this subject but for those who want to travel as light as they can will use their warm day clothes to sleep in. I would like to hear reasons why that is a bad idea.
I like to put pad and bedding in a bivy.
I bought an expensive bivy to keep my pad and bag in place and sleep in under my tarp shelter but I do not like it for lots of reasons. It sweats  inside when all done up, is to hot in summer if done up to keep out mosquitoes.
I am experimenting with something that might be good for all seasons. I just sewed an open top bag with 12” sides by gathering each corner equally to make the sides and ends shorter than the bottom of the bag. When I put my bedding in it the sides are vertical and tight. I just need to attach a top full length net so it will be good for all four seasons.
22
I had this same question as well when I first got into hot tenting here in Ontario.  I wanted a super-warm bag for when the temps dipped down to ambient (I don't keep the stove stoked at night).  I ended up buying the Wiggy's -60 bag as it was one of the coldest rated bags.  Within a year of using the Wiggy's bag I ended up buying a Feathered Friends Snowy Owl -60 bag.

Here's what I don't like about the Wiggy's bag:
-heavy and bulky
-no internal draft collar (I asked him if he'd put one in for me for a fee and he refused)
-the hood system is terrible (you have to pull a draw-cord from the inside that ends up being about 4 feet long inside your bag and the hood just scrunches up around your head
-the style I got is a barrel shape so there is lot's of room inside it.  I thought I'd like this but it is inefficient for heating
-I did not find the bag warm at anything below -20C

What I did like:
-priced very well
-synthetic does have its advantages for a longer trip as there's no depreciation of warmth due to damp down (although a hot tent nullifies this as you can dry your bag out every day)
-it's nice to lay on top of when you're lazing around in the tent (I don't like laying on top of my down bag as it compresses it).
-seems well made

Having switched to the down Snowy Owl I can't say enough about that bag.  It's overkill for most nights but it's very easy to vent (I fall asleep with it wide open and slowly zip it up over the course of the night).  It was expensive as hell (about $1500 CAD) but I hope to have it for the rest of my winter camping days.  I do sleep ridiculously cold as well, hence the extreme bags.  I figure if I do roughly 10 nights a year in the winter, over 15 years that's 150 nights..works out to about $10 a night for a fantastic sleep (at least that's how I justified the cost to myself lol)
23
I know I am late to the conversation here but I have some thoughts.
I was worried about the same issues and wound up buying a big warm bag I am now never going to use as I have had to cancel my trip.
While a -40 down bag has the maximum insulation for the weight carried I really wish I had gone for a rejuvenation of my old Everest bag with a down top-up and gone with a new UL synthetic overquilt. Or bought a new but not extreme bag to use instead on my existing one, say something rated to -20C / 0F. I really stuffed up on both counts as I got myself an overquilt that really only adds 10 degrees to my rating and for another $50- and 200 grams I could have ordered one that gave a full 20 degree boost. I have talked to some very smart and knowledgeable people here and the consensus is that when the overquilt or overbag is properly sized there isn't much compression of the down in the sleeping bag so long as you stay with 800FP down and have the bag slightly overstuffed, by at least 10% but no more than 30%
MY UL overquilt has seen some use tho, it was borrowed by a mate to use on Denali where it performed as designed, the large space between his LW summer bag and the overquilt was used to store his climbing boots so they didn't freeze Ditto his extra water containers inside the boots.
My extra layer was made to my design by Nunatak and cost me $250-USD, ultralight gear isn't cheap, the functionality of the design is due to the way the overquilt has a large mattress sleeve built in to completely enclose the foot area without adding superfluous insulation under the feet, the stacked sleeping mats do that duty. I chose Nunatak rather than a local maker because the local feller couldn't get the UL Robic fabric I wanted for the shell
My sleeping bag is rated to -55C and is for sale now if anybody was interested but it seems that even for members here -55C is a little overkill
24
Lure of the North / Re: Sharing
« Last post by digital_photog on July 09, 2019, 09:23:48 pm »
It has been a while since I posted on this forum.  Have been using the mukluks, mittens and anorak now for a couple years. They have been on many sled dog trips the last 2 years. Have to say I am very pleased with them. Have used them to -40 on one trip this past January.
25
Haggis,

Send me an email, or PM and we can get this in the rotation for WCS 2019!

LL
26


They caught one and skinning it ended any enthusiasm they had for trapping!



Ya, I hit 93 beaver this year, most through the ice. You need a sick sense of pleasure, bbut you can learn to look forward to and enjoy the skinning process.

27
Injury is a huge worry.

I figure a main target would be beaver. They are easy to locate and to trap. Plus a guy feels like a trapper when he is hauling a beaver!

Buddy, who was dabbling in trapping, decided to go after beaver. He and his brother were wiring the springs to poles for an under ice set. They lay the set 330 flat on the ice. It snapped, jumped up, and one of them nearly lost their nose.

They caught one and skinning it ended any enthusiasm they had for trapping!

All trappers have gotten bitten by their equipment or know someone that has. I have a thumb that isn't 100% due to a 280. I had over 30 years experience when that happened. It was bad luck. I was on my own and handled the situation fine. But, if I had fallen in the culvert, things would have been hairier.

I know another guy that got both thumbs in a 120 mag. It was wired to the pole. He was going no where until his buddy freed him.

Modern traps are not toys.

Snares are pretty safe but there is a steep learning curve.
28
Not all of the USA is the same regarding trapping. NYS requires an 8hr course to be taken to a new trapper.
And then what trap/s is illegal in NY might not be elsewhere.
29
Don't get me wrong! I am all for getting people interested in trapping. I would just hate to have things go awry. If there is a way to prevent that I am all for it. I just don't know if a blanket disclaimer to follow all your state or provinces rules and regulations is enough in this case
30
Sounds interesting, however, it might not be the best of ideas. In my part of the world, trappers must have an obligatory course similar to courses taken for hunting. The purpose of the course is safety, ethics, avoidance of catching non-targets, harvesting methods, fur handlingand fur bearer management.

There is also the reality of registered traplines where exclusivity of trapping rights is already granted.

This is all complicated stuff difficult to learn in a short period of time.

Snaring hares is easily learned and not subject to the same reality. Setting a 330 mag for beaver or a foothold that might pinch a dog is a whole different thing.

I was a provincial trap line instructor and I would be very nervous encouraging someone, who just wants to dabble a little, to use any of the mandatory body grip traps legally required to harvest most of the species you mentioned.

But reading sign, recognizing some sets made by a trapper and snaring hares would be easily done and worthwhile for the winter trekker.

Sorry if this appears negative. But it would be a shame if someone got injured or if trapping got a another black eye.
As someone who has one registered line, and who traps on two others I cant agree more. Rabbit snaring is much different than 330s, 220s in boxes...etc. While I know lure of the north does a trapping trip that was quite successful, they are licensed trappers and were doing their trips on a a registered line that they were helper trappers on. While I know the US is so much different (you can buy a license and trap the same day), we have fought too hard here to have our ways threatened by people who simply dont know how to avoid non target animals. We can still set free hanging snares here for canines, we can set 330s above water and fisher and coon boxes on the ground. It only takes rover dead once in a trap on the 6:00 news because of someones carelessness to tarnish public opinion enough to further limit us.

Our mandatory courses take two weekends full time to complete, and the graduate is still a complete newbie who generally cannot get a trapline right away. Takes more learning than that, hence our system of getting on a line as a helper trapper. While trapping is not overly complex, its trapping in today's society that is the issue with everyone looking to sue everyone and put regulations on anything they don't personally agree with. 
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